Makeup 101: Eyeshadow and Mascara

Eye makeup is as easy as one, two, three.  Well, more like five.

"Eye shadow can add depth and dimension to one's eyes, complement the eye color, or simply draw attention to the eyes. Eye shadow comes in many different colors and textures. It is usually made from a powder and mica, but can also be found in liquid, pencil, or mousse form." (Wikipedia)

Eye Primer

Before applying eyeshadow you should use a primer to help it better adhere to the skin and make it last longer.  Primer is especially good for those with oily eyelids because it prevents your eyeshadow from creasing throughout the day.  Primer can also enhance eyeshadow colors by making them more vivid.  Primers that come tinted different colors add special effects to your eyeshadows.  For example if you are using a neon eyeshadow you should first apply a white primer as a base to help the color pop out on your eyes.  A gold primer can add a foil effect to eyeshadows making them appear metallic.  For everyday you can use a clear or skin colored primer.

As with face primers, eye primers can come with benefits for the eye area such as color correcting redness, brighten dark circles, and have anti-aging ingredients.  One of my favorite drugstore eyeshadow primers is the Milani Eyeshadow Primer.

Contouring

Highlight - you want to highlight the areas where the light hits your face to open up the eyes and make them appear bigger and more awake.  Typical areas are the brow bone and the inner corner of the eye.  If you have hooded eyelids you want to avoid highlighting the browbone because it enlarges the area making your eyes appear droopy.  It is better to bring the crease up a bit higher than normal.

Deepen - you want to shade the areas where shadows naturally occur.  This area is referred to as the crease because your eye creases in between your eyelid and your browbone.  If you have mono lids you can fake a crease by using dark eyeshadows or double-lid tape.

I love eye shadow trios because they make contouring the eye area very easy. They come with a highlight shade, a crease (shadow) shade, and a liner shade. This does not mean that the colors are limited to only these three areas. You can use the highlight shade from lid to brow for an easy no makeup look or you can add your crease shade for easy definition for everyday. You can also use your medium shade in place of your highlight shade and use the darkest shade for the crease for a more dramatic look.  My favorite neutral drugstore eyeshadow is the Cover Girl Eye Enhancers 3 Kit Shadows in Shimmering Sands.

Choosing colors

Neutrals and browns are good for everyday as they are the colors that occur naturally in our skin.

Bright colors are best left to fun occasions that are not work or school.  This doesn't mean you can't incorporate a bright color into your everyday look as long as you balance it out with neutrals so it is not so overpowering.

Dark shades are good for nighttime events because you can create a sexy smokey eye.

Tools

Eyeshadow/Shader Brush - this brush helps you to apply eyeshadow to your lids.  You use this brush to first pack on the eyeshadow in a patting motion and then smooth it a little bit with a soft sweeping motion.

Crease/Blending Brush - this brush helps you to apply eyeshadow to your crease and blend shades together.  You use this brush to first pack on eyeshadow lightly and then use a back and forth windshield wiper motion in the crease.  Next use a small circular motion in the outer triangle of the eye to blend your lid color and your crease color.  Do not blend beyond the middle of the lid.

Eyeliner/Angle Brush - this brush helps you apply eyeliner.  You can use it to apply gel or powder liners.

--For powder: dip the brush in the eyeshadow then tap off the excess.  With the angled side toward you make small strokes along the upper lash line to create a soft line.

--For gel: dip the brush in the gel and wipe the excess off on the edge of the pot.  With the angled side toward you make small strokes along the upper lash line to create a dramatic line.

Some of my favorite drugstore brushes are by e.l.f. because they make affordable brushes that work.

Mascara

Mascara is one of the single most important pieces of makeup a woman can own.  It adds instant drama to your face by drawing attention to the eyes.  Mascara darkens, lengthens, volumizes, and curls the eyelashes which opens up the eye area making eyes look wider and more awake.  To prep for mascara you can use an eyelash curler which curls lashes up and out for even bigger lashes.  For everyday it's best to use a brown mascara which is less harsh looking in daylight especially if you have light colored hair.  For night go for a sexy super black mascara.  One of my favorite no fuss no muss mascaras currently is Cover Girl Clump Crusher Mascara.

Application

Prime eyes with an eyeshadow primer.  Apply the lightest shade in the trio from the upper lash line to the brow bone.  Next apply the medium shade to the crease and blend down into the outer triangle area.  Apply the darkest shade as an eyeliner.  Lastly apply two coats of mascara.